Today a run-down on some crappie technique tips, tricks, and secrets that’ll get the big crappie attacks you dream of.
In the last 2 days the temperature has dropped almost 20 degrees over in these parts… which means fishing strategies must change along with it.
Pay special attention to the “finger popping” twist revealed in the information below.
It’ll absolutely blow you away if you put it to work this fall.
These old guys are doing their part, that’s for sure:
They’ve been doing it all their lives…and they’ve got some crappie catching secrets that will knock your socks off…and fill your stringer with big crappie glistening in the sunlight.
They’re going to show you:
* How to use a special scent with “dip” movements to engage a crappie’s hunting instinct… practically forcing them to take your bait instantly!
* The 3 rotation jigs old school crappie guys use… when used as a “team” they are irresistible to crappie (ever see guys with hundreds of different jigs in their box? You only need these 3…)
* How to create the “illusion” of baby minnows schooling around your jig (Whip this secret out when your jigs aren’t working. Crappie will usually hit it immediately!)
* … and hundreds more.
And you can try it all now before you decide…
Ok…let’s get to it…
Many people have trouble catching crappie on jigs, especially when the fish get sulky. This will sound over-simplified, but the difference between going home empty, or filling a fish basket up is simply proper techniques for the prevailing conditions. During the spawn, anyone can catch crappie, on just about anything, but in Post-Spawn mode, crappie tend to be moody and uncooperative.
Many times, they will suspend at a certain depth, without regard to cover, and refuse anything unless it just about swims into their mouth on it’s own. Here are some tricks that will boost your harvest next time.
First, let’s talk about equipment. If you are going to be a serious year-around crappie angler, there are a few thing you MUST have. You’ll need a boat, of some kind. It needn’t be a $14,000 Tournament boat. Any dinghy, skiff, canoe, kayak, inflatable, Jon Boat, or even a Float Tube will work in many instances.
I use a Kayak, Canoe and Float-Tube, myself. You’ll need a depth-finder, but the portable units work fine. Next, the main rods you will need are crappie poles in 10′, and 12′ lengths. They can be true poles, or have reel seats. B & N makes several great models.
You need a ultra light reel and 4 lb. test Trilene. I use nothing else for crappie.
As to jig selection, you can fill a tackle box up quickly (and you no doubt will) with the plethora of different heads and bodies available, but to start with, I’d keep it simple.
Nothing out fishes the plain-old 1/16th oz. marabou jig. They come in all colors, and combinations, and are dirt-cheap. Next, I d have a good supply of small tube jigs. And, a good assortment of twister tails rounds out the well-equipped arsenal.
The best colors are Chartreuse and Yellow, with white being a good second choice early in the season. In murky waters, use lighter and brighter colors. At night, use all-black.
Top all this off with a good brand of scent, like Smelly Jelly, or Berkley Baitmate, in Minnow and Shad flavors.
Now, what to do with all this gear? Here are the proper techniques to use in different situations.
Still-Fish-For some reason, a lot of people think that a jig is not effective unless it’s moving. This is definitely a false assumption. When crappie are moody, they get ultra lazy, and will refuse anything moving fast enough to have to make them expend any energy to get it. Sometimes people fish right in the middle of a large school of crappie, and never get a hit, because they are moving the jig. After locating a school with your depth-finder, watch them for a minute. If they are stationary, chances are they are moody.
Now is the time for still fishing a jig. They will usually suspend near the thermocline, which can be anywhere from 10-20′ deep in most places. Take your 12′ rod, tie a jig on the end of the line, then hold the pole straight up and down. Let line out until the jig is even with the butt of the pole. This is all the line you need out. Now, drop the jig straight down, and just let it set. Every few minutes, you can slowly move the jig around a little.
Soon, a crappie will slam the jig.
Down-Jigging – After a cold front moves through, the barometric pressure will go up, and the crappie will be uncooperative. They will usually go to the bottom in 10′-15′ of water, with their noses tight in cover. Hover your jig about 1′ off the bottom for several seconds, then, suddenly and sharply, drop your rod tip 2-3 inches, to make the jig drop sharply.
The sudden drop often triggers strikes from fish that were too lazy to hit even a stationary jig.
Slow -Rise -When down-jigging doesn’t work, allow you jig to suspend 2-3 inches off the bottom for a few seconds, then slooooowly raise your rod tip up about a foot. Hold it there for around 15 seconds, then sloooowly allow it to drop back down. Be ready to set the hook at anytime. Crappie will usually hit the jig on the rise, or fall.
Finger-Popping-in situations where the fish are a bit more aggressive, you can trigger strikes by grasping the line above the reel between the thumb and forefinger, With you free fingers, repeatedly ‘flick’ the line, making the jig ‘dance’ underwater. Any crappie watching the jig can’t resist nailing it.
High-Hopping-when crappie get inactive immediately after spawning, here is a trick to entice them a bit. Drop your line to within 2 inches of the bottom, and set it set for a few seconds. The sharp[y pull up 2-3 feet, and let the jig fall back down. This can trigger some vicious strike.
Studying your quarry helps a lot. Learn about crappie habits, and use these techniques and you will seldom get ‘skunked’.
Great set of tips to kick off October with.
The fall months present a lot of great crappie fishing opportunity, if you know where and how to find them.
That’s what I’m hear for, to help you get more crappie on the line.
Hauling ’em in is up to you.
See you next Friday…